Roman columns, gold lions, and a hotel

The first thing I noticed after crossing the border into northern Palestine was the quality of the roads. In contrast to the roads in Israel that were smooth and well paved, here they were rough and dotted with potholes. Though, in many areas the U.S. government is funding a lot of new road construction.

Loud Arabic music filled the car, as we debated whether to go first into Jenin, or to our hotel. “Hotel or Jenin...hotel or Jenin,” our driver barked, as we neared a turnoff.

“Okay, to the hotel,” the three of us answered in unison.

Surrounded by rich, fertile fields, the Haddad Hotel is located two miles from Jenin. The city made headlines in 2002, when it was the scene of fierce fighting between Palestinians and the Israeli military, in which 75 were killed.

From the road, the first thing that greets visitors is a small amusement park, but after driving up a long driveway, the extent to the Haddad family’s ambitions and garish taste reveals itself. Sure there is a small, modern hotel, but so too is there a theatre, with a capacity for 2,000 people, and a stage set that Caesar would be proud of with its faux gold coloured Roman columns.

Next to the hotel are three mansions, whose architecture could only be described as southern U.S. antebellum meets Rome. One house is the father's, and the others for his two sons. The middle house has a large relief and statue of St. George slaying a dragon. Scattered haphazardly through the grounds are Roman columns and life-sized statues of gold lions. In fact, the only danger I have experienced so far on this trip is the chance of being knocked over by a Roman column. The family is also putting the finishing touches on a museum highlighting Palestinian history.

One of the sons showed us around the amusement park, which features 16 rides. All of the rides were built in the family owned factory, which gives the park a bit of a dated, worn-around-the edges feel to it. Maybe the kind of midway my parents may have experienced in the 1950s or ‘60s. The family goes online to see what the latest rides are out there, and then designs similar ones for the Park. The family is looking at expanding the amusement park, which was filled mostly with young children and their mothers.

Walking around one couldn’t help see the irony between this place and the Jenin refugee camp, which we had driven through earlier in the day. John thought the entire place was tasteless, especially given the conditions that many people in the area live. I reminded him that the hotel and amusement park, along with the other attractions employed lots of people desperate for jobs. In fact, the factory that builds the rides employs 70 people alone. He agreed, but still shook his head. We watched one ride come to a stop. A woman vomited. We all turned and walked away.

That night for dinner, our guide arranged for us to eat outside amidst the trees and Roman columns. While the days were warm and sunny, the evenings were cool. John was wearing a sweater and jacket, and both Ronald and I went inside to retrieve our own jackets and sweaters. Back outside, each of us, including our guide, Nad, had our arms crossed trying to stay warm.

“This is absurd...it this what Palestinians do,” John asked Nad, in a half-joking, half-serious manner.

We all laughed at this subtle suggestion to move inside, where a others were enjoying dinner, without having to wear a sweater and jacket.

With St. George slaying a dragon nearby, we continued to chuckle about the absurdity of sitting outside in the cold, while deriding the over-the-top atmosphere. If you find yourself in Jenin, the Haddad Hotel might just be your best bet, especially if you like a kitschy ambience.