The Unlikely Pilgrim

Life itself is a pilgrimage. Every day is different,
every day can have a magic moment ~ Paulo Coelho

For thousands of years, the biblical story of Mary and Joseph’s journey from Nazareth to Bethlehem has captivated the imagination of people the world over.

It is this timeless narrative, on the eve of my 40th birthday, that has inspired me to walk the same journey that Mary and Joe took (though I don’t think I’ll have a donkey with me).

I began envisioning this trip more than a year ago, and first imagined it as a solo journey. I pulled out a map, and noticed that Bethlehem is a straight line south from Nazareth, about 90 km. Looked easy enough.

Detecting a slight concern for my safety and security in this troubled part of the world, my wife asked if there was some sort of tour that I could join. I appreciated her point, but being herded on and off a tour bus was not the experience I was looking for.

I wanted to find out what the “situation” was like from people who lived in the region, not through the lens of the media, which often fixates on isolated events, giving one a sensationalist and distorted view of what life on the ground was really like. I began contacting random people through the social networking site facebook, explaining my idea and asking if it was indeed possible to walk from Nazareth to Bethlehem.

The first response I received said I couldn’t do it. I felt a little deflated, but I wasn’t about to let that get me down, so I asked for some clarification. There’s a big difference between can’t do something and CAN’T do something. The person sent another message saying that it could be done (now that’s more like it), but when I got to the Palestinian territory of the West Bank, of which much of the Nativity Trail travels, the Israeli Defense Force may not allow me to enter and if they did, they wouldn't be responsible for my safety.

After a few more contacts, I was put in touch with someone named George, whose runs a small group that among other things organizes walking tours from Nazareth to Bethlehem. By this time, and much to the delight of my wife I’m sure; I had warmed to the idea of a small (emphasis on the small) group tour. Early last year, I remember coming home one day and my wife said someone named George from Bethlehem left a message on the answering machine. I found this amusing because I had only associated Bethlehem with one name, and it began with a "J". After chatting with George from Bethlehem for a bit, I figured this would be the best way to fulfill my desire to visit Israel and Palestine.

The group will spend the first couple of days in Nazareth, and the northern part of the West Bank, before beginning the 130 km, nine day walk to Bethlehem. We will overnight in Zababdeh (where interestingly, by law the mayor must be Christian), Fara’a, Nablus, Duma, Alauja, Jericho, and Mar Saba, and finally Bethlehem. I will then end my journey in Jerusalem on Easter weekend.

Click here for a larger view of the map:

As if only the devout could appreciate religious history, I’m often asked why a nonbeliever like myself would be interested in visiting the Holy Land. A fair question, I suppose.

I was baptized in the Anglican Church, and as a youngster went to Sunday school. It was there I would listen to idyllic stories and daydream about this far away land. Once I was even in a Nativity play. Though I don’t remember, I think it was a bit part – a shepherd, maybe. Or was it a donkey, or maybe a tree?

As I grew older my beliefs began to take shape. I never thought of, or referred to myself as an atheist. I have a good friend, who on occasion will say, “but that’s what you are…that’s what you are.” Maybe so, but I'm just a guy that believes certain things and have never needed a label to satisfy those beliefs. Despite my thinking, and the fact that Churches, and other places of worship, often make me feel uncomfortable, I have an appreciation for religious history and the intoxicating lure that has drawn pilgrims (and conquerors) to the Holy Land for thousands of years.

After more than a year of planning and reading countless books, the Unlikely Pilgrim sets off for Tel Aviv tomorrow.