Seoul reflection

It was late afternoon when I was standing in downtown Seoul waiting for the #6002 bus to the airport. A man motioned to me that the bus was approaching, and made sure I was standing in the right place to get noticed by the driver. I wasn’t sure if he worked for the bus company, or if he was just being helpful. Whatever the case, he said goodbye and waved to me as I climbed the steps into the bus.



Most of Seoul's downtown buildings are uninspiring, with the exception of Chongno Tower



Rolling down Chongno Road on a blue sky day (a rarity at times given pollution from industry and the 20+ million people that live in the city), I couldn’t help but marvel at the resilience of the Korean people. Devastated following the Korean War, South Korea was one of the world’s poorest countries. Yet, in a handful of decades it has grown into one of the world’s leading economies. It’s likely that you, or someone you know, own something made in Korea. A Hyundai or Kia car, perhaps. Or maybe a Samsung or LG mobile phone or television, or other electronic device.



The first line in Seoul's subway system was built in 1974. Continued expansion goes on today.



I passed the Chongno Sam Ga subway station, a massive underground complex with 15 exits, and where three subway lines intersect. In fact, the Seoul subway and rail network, which carries more than two billion people each year, is one of the largest in the world. And while others that are marginally larger and more than a Century old, like the New York and London systems, Seoul’s first line opened less than 40 years ago. Looking at a map of the subway system, you’d think that it was designed by an idle three year old with a pack of crayons. But despite its size, the system is easy to navigate and the stations and impressive 11-car trains are immaculately clean. A byproduct of Confucian values that still permeates Korean society.

I thought back to when Carrie and I were living in Korea, and how the Asian economic crisis bit South Korea hard. The country was embarrassingly forced to accept financial help from the International Monetary Fund (IMF). A series of austerity measures were put in place. It was winter and I remember the heat being turned off in subway stations, along with the down escalators to save energy. The government discouraged foreign travel and encouraged people to buy local goods. People were shamed for not following these edicts.



Part of the Gyeonbok Palace. Originally constructed in 1395, it was the largest of the five grand palaces built by the Joseon Dynasty





Old and new



Carrie was teaching a class of students, who were about 10 or 11 years old, and one day a couple of the students yelled out, “Teacha, Teacha…Jason is using Japanese pen…IMF..IMF.” While the class was laughing uproariously, all eyes had turned to the offending student.” His was an honest response. “Japanese pens are better than Korean pens!”

All doors lead to new opportunities





Dongdaemun, or Great East Gate, one of eight gates of Seoul originally constructed between 1396 and 1398. Six of the eight gates still remain today

Koreans even lined up to give their gold to the government to shore up the country’s gold reserves. Imagine that. And in just a few short years Koreans were reaping the benefits of an improved economy.

A little more than hour after leaving downtown Seoul, the bus arrived at Incheon International Airport, which depending on who’s doing the surveying is ranked as the world’s best airport—a gleaming jewel of Korean innovation and determination.


The modernistic train station at Seoul's Incheon International Airport