Seoul's renewal

In a previous post I shared a story about the renewal of life. Seoul, too, recently underwent a renewal of its own, when water again flowed along Cheonggyecheon. This six kilometre stream has played an important role in the city’s long history, but the Centuries haven’t always been kind to this waterway.

In more recent times Seoul’s rapid growth following the Korean War led to a surge of people moving to the city. Choked with garbage and sand and earth, Cheonggyecheon had become neglected. As a result, through the 1950s and ‘60s the stream was covered over with concrete to make way for roads. And in 1971 an elevated highway was constructed. This was hailed as a sign of successful industrialization and modernization  

Just a few years ago, this is what Cheonggyecheon looked like

But so-called progress comes at a price, and as you can imagine an elevated highway running through the middle of the city was an awful blight. I remember walking in this area 15 years ago, and it was noisy and desolate. 

Not without critics, the city decided upon a massive $900 million urban renewal project that would see the stream restored. In 2003, the elevated highway was removed and two years later the stream, about 15 feet wide, was flowing again. A walking path was built on both sides of the stream, and at points along the waterway, large stones have been placed, so people can cross from one side to the other. A series of bridges were also built to allow cars and pedestrians at road level to cross.

 

This is what courage to make things right looks like. A fantastic example of urban renewal

Not surprisingly the stream has now become a popular walking area for locals and visitors. I could see the stream from my hotel, and after a tiring day I just wanted to stay put, but I forced myself outside and was glad I did.

I followed the stream’s course east toward Dongdaemun, or east gate, for about two kilometres. Thick grasses and trees line the banks of the stream. Every so often I would step over the large stones and walk along the other side. I stopped and looked back as the setting sun lit up the western sky. As you would think, there is little wildlife in this city of more than 20 million, so I was surprised when I saw the stream teeming with fish. And for a city of its size, Seoul is relatively clean, and the area around the stream is no different. 

I continued on, and came to a large image on a wall. It showed what the area was like when it was a highway filled with cars. The transformation is mind boggling. It's uplifting to know that with some courage and ingenuity we can make right and restore the environment to what it once was.